Excessive intake valve buildup

kayroe said:

I think that it's in the owners manual that you are to add a fuel treatment to a tank of fuel every 7500 miles if you don't use high detergent fuel in your vehicle.

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No matter what one adds to the gas tank, it won't clean the intake valve build up on direct injected engines.

jnc2000 said:

Path914 -- you are correct. It's a simple procedure, just time consuming.

Materials being used:

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

Start with removing all vacuum lines, coil packs, and spark plugs. Once you have the TB off, and IM your motor should look like this:

Rotate the crank with a 22MM 1/2" socket and close the valves in one of the cylinders. This will be easier with the spark plugs and coil packs removed.

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Good info. I was looking online for the 3.8 IM removal and it said something about draining the coolant?

Also, when using walnut do you plan on vacuuming at the same time, or how does that work?

I'll post a full fledged DIY later but here's something brief... By no way should anyone assume this is all inclusive. You should be fairly comfortable working around motors, and have basic DIY skills before attempting...

Tools required:

• 1/2" 22mm socket
• 1/2" ratchet
• 3/8" ratchet with various extensions
• 3/8" knuckle socket
• 3/8" 10mm and 12mm (deep and regular)
• 3/8" 5/8" spark plug socket
• 1/4" ratchet with various extensions
• 1/4" 10mm
• Needle nose pliers
• Flat head screw driver
• #2 phillips
• Fine grade walnuts for use in shell blasting
• Blaster -- the portable kit from HF will work just fine provided you understand blasting.
  
  
• Compressor capable of supplying adequate air pressure and air storage. I strongly advise against using smaller single stage compressors... dual stage high volume compressors are the way to go for this.
  
• Shop vac - modified hose attachment. I used the "lint lizard", but will be buying the specialized BMW tool. I'll list the part number later.

Advisory: As always take proper care when using blasting media. Always protect your eyes, and lungs. Wear a proper respirator, and safety glasses. Use in a well ventilated area.

Step 1. -- Remove the intake tract, air filter (and box), and Helmholtz resonator. There are two 10MM bolts which attach to the valve covers, and two small plastic retainer type screws (phillips) which attach to the upper radiator support. Slide the clip retaining which connects to the vacuum line on the driver side valve cover and remove the whole assembly.

Step 2. -- Remove the electrical connector for the TB. Move it to the side, and remove the four 10mm bolts holding the TB in place. Take care, and use a small flat head to slide off the coolant lines which attach to the underside of the TB. You will loose a very small amount of coolant when this is done. Place a shop towel under the TB to collect any dropped coolant. Once your TB is removed place it to the side. Now would be a good time to inspect it, and clean it.

Step 3. -- Remove all vacuum lines from the IM. After removing the air box, and assembly you're left with three more lines. There should be one on the passenger side valve cover, top front center of the IM, and one left in the rear. The one in the rear is a bit difficult to get to, but not impossible. Slide off the lines to prepare for IM removal.

Step 4. -- Remove electrical connector from MAP sensor (it's located in the rear of the IM) and remove the sensor itself. It's secured by a single 10mm bolt. Place the sensor to the side and mark the bolt accordingly.

Step 5. -- Remove the six 10mm bolts which secure the wiring harness for the coil packs, and other sensors. There are two on both valve covers, and two on the top of the IM.

Step 6. -- With the wiring harness slightly out of the way you'll now have access to the HPFP bracket on the back of the driver side IM. Remove the 10MM bolt. There should also be two additional 10MM bolts and brackets on the rear of the IM. Remove and place to the side.

Step 7. -- Once everything is out of the way you can now access the ten 12mm nuts holding the IM to the heads. Use your 3/8" ratchet, extensions and knuckle of needed to remove each one of these. The knuckle should only be needed in the rear, where access is quite tight. Once removed, you'll have to slide the wiring harness bracket to the rear, which will allow you to lift out the entire IM assembly. Remove the insulating foam which is under your IM

Step 7. -- Remove the Coil Packs and spark plugs. This is pretty self explanatory. Use a 10mm socket to remove each coil pack. Take note of which coil pack and the cylinder it was for. You may need to use an assortment of extensions / knuckles to get to each one. Once the coil packs are removed use your 3/8" (5/8") spark plug socket, and extensions to remove each plug.
Note: This is not mandatory, but will make it easier to manually turn over the crank by hand.

Step 8. -- Take a look at your valves, make note of which ones are open / closed. Take Blue painters tape (high quality 3M) and tape of the open valves, and spark plug holes. You may need to rotate the crank in order to fully close the valves in cylinder #1. To rotate your crank take your 22mm 1/2" ratchet and turn the crank over. Rotate clockwise.

Step 9. -- Start blasting! Do one cylinder at a time (two valves). Take your time, and protect your eyes and lungs. Utilize the shop vac for media collecting and removing any over-sprayed media. You will need to rotate the crank to get each cylinder clean. Use your 22mm socket and ratchet to continue to rotate the crank. After you've cleaned one cylinder tape it off and move to the next

Step 10. -- Once each valve is cleaned with the blast media clean / rinse with a carb cleaner. If your valves are cleaned good enough this will do a final rinse, and remove the small amount of carbon left on the rear of the valve (which is next to impossible to remove while blasting). Again, protect from over-spray and clean up with shop towels.

Step 11. -- Re-assemble in reverse order of removal. Ensure all hoses and electrical connectors are in place, then fire her up. After shutting the motor off clean everything with a high quality non-abrasive cleaner.

Congratulations! If completed successfully you're motor will thank you, and you'll make your life a lot easier in the long term maintenance of your motor.

Here's a picture of a cleaned valve prior to the carb cleaner...

Philth said:

Good info. I was looking online for the 3.8 IM removal and it said something about draining the coolant?

Also, when using walnut do you plan on vacuuming at the same time, or how does that work?

Click to expand...

No need to drain the coolant IMO - if you note in that picture I went ahead and did my TB coolant bypass at at that time. I vacuumed and blasted at the same time. It's good to have a helper for this reason

Side note.... I'm working on procuring a dual CC from Saikou Michi. Top notch quality, and makes a nice piece.

jnc2000 said:

Side note.... I'm working on procuring a dual CC from Saikou Michi. Top notch quality, and makes a nice piece.

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This is the same brand as i had on my MS6, great piece.

I'll need several things inorder to make sure of even basic fitment for the Tau. I need pictures and measurements of all of the valve cover vents, the narrow part of the vent nipple not the tip. I also need clear, well lit pictures of all four sides of your engine bay from both top and bottom. Once I have those I'll know what I'm looking for and hopefully we can get a can spec'd for you. I looked at your thread, make sure when cleaning your valves from a media blast that you take a strong shop vac and get all those little pieces out of there. Walnut will etch your liners, destroy your rings and possibly pooch your whole engine.

You can post the pictures up here or link to another thread and I'll get them. I don't use this site much but I've got my email alerts on so now that I'm subbed I'll be tracking it.

Will do... I cleaned everything out out of there (just snapped a quick picture prior which is why the small walnut shell was in there).

I'll take the pictures tonight, and PM you the link. Thanks snoopy.

I'll put this in the final writeup.... but of note the following torque specifications.

IM nuts - 15lbs
Spark Plugs - 11-18lbs
Coil Pack - 8lbs

You sure the spark plugs are that high for torque? Seems high for aluminum heads.

Yup, those numbers are from techline.

So has anyone installed a catch can on the Genesis? I've had one on my prior two vehicles, but it seems one would be especially beneficial on the GDI given that the oily build up from the crankcase vapors seems to be the culprit behind the intake valve build up.

I'm just wondering if anyone has a brand they would recommend. I've always used the cheap eBay ones, resealed them, and placed some sort of coarse media (steel wool) inside to help catch the gunk.

I would prefer going another route other than attempting to take a part my intake manifold. I'm not that brave...

zielritter said:

So has anyone installed a catch can on the Genesis? I've had one on my prior two vehicles, but it seems one would be especially beneficial on the GDI given that the oily build up from the crankcase vapors seems to be the culprit behind the intake valve build up.

I'm just wondering if anyone has a brand they would recommend. I've always used the cheap eBay ones, resealed them, and placed some sort of coarse media (steel wool) inside to help catch the gunk.

I would prefer going another route other than attempting to take a part my intake manifold. I'm not that brave...

Click to expand...

See post #28 -- I'm working to have one developed for us....

I'm not so sure a catch can would fix this unless there is some sort of filter to catch the mist. It may, but typically catch cans work on FI cars the best.

FWIW, my SRT-4, from the factory, had the PCV system filtered before it made it's way back into the intake tract. Naturally, that entire thing had to come out when I went over 400WHP.

It will not "fix" anything, but it should help eliminate some of the source of buildup in a GDI engine.

On my TDI MS6, even with a catch can and blocked off EGR, I still had to manually clean the valves every 30k mi. However, my catch can filled every 6 months or so which is quite a bit of gunk that would have otherwise gone through the engine.

path914 said:

It will not "fix" anything, but it should help eliminate some of the source of buildup in a GDI engine.

On my TDI MS6, even with a catch can and blocked off EGR, I still had to manually clean the valves every 30k mi. However, my catch can filled every 6 months or so which is quite a bit of gunk that would have otherwise gone through the engine.

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Your MS6 was FI, correct?

Philth said:

Your MS6 was FI, correct?

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Yes, and I had a larger turbo and higher boost than stock.

The GDI in the Genesis should have less excess buildup in the intake, so hopefully the addition of a catch can will be sufficient.

I have been reading enough on this subject recently to be dangerous. So I'm asking those people who know more than I do about all this to chime in.

Is it true that a lower NOACK rating for an oil can be a factor in reducing intake valve carbon buildup in DI engines?

Also, is there anything factual about "split event" DI designs actually misting the intake valves with fuel and therefore having the potential for fuel detergents reducing intake valve carbon? I don't know if the 5.0 is a split event DI design, but some of Hyundai's turbo 4 DI engines are. Any thoughts anyone?

I would also be interested in catch can information on the 5.0 application.

Does anyone know if the brake booster line feeds all of the cylinders in the V6? I'm thinking maybe using Seafoam every 10k to keep the intake valve backs as clean as possible.

I know you can also spray Seafoam into the throttle body, but the booster line is easier and I actually have experience doing it that way in previous vehicles.